Sept 25 – Fonsagrada

“It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves.” — Sir Edmund Hillary

With a long day stretching ahead, we set out before sunrise, stepping into a world still cloaked in darkness. A heavy mist hung in the air, softening the edges of the trail and casting a mysterious, almost otherworldly mood over the landscape. Our headlamps carved narrow tunnels of light through the dark, illuminating wet leaves and stones that glistened as if dusted with silver. Every surface shimmered with moisture, and the silence of the early hour wrapped around us…a stillness so profound it felt almost sacred. It was a beautiful, hushed beginning to the ten hour hike ahead of us.

As the sun crept higher, the mist transformed into a golden haze, drifting like silk across the landscape. Above it, the sky deepened into a clear, radiant blue, while the air, heavy with moisture, carried a freshness that was both cool and sweet — a reminder of the new day unfolding.

In the distance, the rhythmic sound of hooves broke the morning quiet, growing closer with each beat. Moments later, a striking horse appeared, trotting gracefully across the field until it came right up to the fence where we were walking, as if inviting attention. I couldn’t resist..I stopped, reached out, and gladly pet it for a few minutes.

With the sun now casting its light across the land, we found ourselves drawn deeper into a tree-lined trail that became our constant companion for much of the day. The path wound beneath arching branches, where shifting patterns of shadow and sunlight played across the ground. From time to time, the trees gave way to open farmland, where cows grazed lazily in wide, green pastures and farm dogs stood alert at the edges of their yards, watchful guardians of their homes.

As with every day on this journey, the trail surprised us with just how much we ascended, each climb steeper and more demanding than it first appeared. Yet with every push upward, the reward grew greater and the landscape unfolded into rugged ridgelines, sweeping valleys, and vistas so vast they seemed to challenge us to climb higher still. The effort left us breathless, but the views from each new height made the struggle feel like part of the adventure itself.

Today’s journey carried us across an important threshold leaving behind the mountains of Asturias and stepping into the rolling landscapes of Galicia. The border also marked a milestone of its own: the halfway point along the Camino Primitivo, a moment that felt both like an accomplishment and an invitation to press on toward Santiago.

The final destination today, Fonsagrada, is the highest town in Galicia, and is a historic stop on the Camino Primitivo. Its name comes from the Fonte Sagrada (“Sacred Fountain”), a spring said to have miraculous powers, located beside the church of Santa María. For centuries, pilgrims paused here at the Royal Hospital of Santiago de Montouto.

My thoughts: Today was a long one..ten hours on the trail, each step testing endurance. Yet the rewards were undeniable: sweeping views that stopped us in our tracks, the richness of the journey itself, and the joy of meeting fellow pilgrims from every corner of the world. I end the day tired, but deeply grateful. Time seems to be flying, each day blending into memories I know I’ll carry long after the Camino is done.