Sept 29 – Ferreira (Palas de Rei)

“The journey is the reward.” — Taoist Proverb

Today’s walk quickly carried us out of Lugo and back into the calm embrace of forests and winding country roads. Leaving the city was surprisingly easy, and almost at once we were surrounded by open fields and shaded groves, the air rich with the sharp scent of eucalyptus and the earthy fragrance of oak leaves. The soft crunch of the path beneath our shoes kept a steady rhythm, while the distant sound of cows and their bells drifted across the countryside. As always, Spain’s landscapes are breathtaking….the forests not only dazzle the eye with their beauty, but also offer a timeless serenity.

This marks our final day on the Camino Primitivo before we join the Camino Francés tomorrow. Already, I’ve begun to notice more pilgrims appearing along the trail..not so many that it feels crowded, but enough that new and unfamiliar faces are starting to mingle with the familiar rhythm of our journey. It feels bittersweet to leave behind the quieter solitude of the Primitivo, yet there’s also a sense of excitement in stepping into the shared energy of the Francés and becoming part of its larger story.

Our destination is the tiny hamlet of Ferreira (Palas de Rei), home to only about 60 residents. What makes it especially charming is the contrast between its size and its role on the Camino…despite being so small, it offers three different albergues, a clear sign of how deeply the village is woven into the pilgrim’s path.

When we arrived at our albergue, Kathleen and I were delighted to run into our Camino friends, Runa and Gere. The two first met on the Camino years ago and have since reunited to walk many trails together. Runa comes from Iceland, Gere from Norway.. such a beautiful reminder of how this journey weaves together lives and friendships across borders.

My thoughts: Only a few days remain to take in this beautiful corner of Spain. In just a couple of days we will walk into Santiago, and this chapter of the journey will come to an end. The thought is both exciting and bittersweet…exciting to finally reach the destination that has called us forward with every step, yet a little sad to realize how quickly the time has passed. The Camino has been more than a walk; it has been a rhythm of discovery, connection, and presence, and I find myself wanting to hold on to these final days and savor them slowly. To me, the Camino gives so much more. A time to reset, to disconnect from the hamster wheel of daily life, and a chance to be present. Feeling appreciative and grateful.