Sept 30 – Boente

“Never has there been and never again will there be another you.” SC Chapman

This morning Kathleen and I set out on our own, each following the trail at our own pace. We’ve always had an agreement if one of us feels a burst of energy, it’s fine to go ahead. So Kathleen headed out early, in the quiet darkness, while I lingered behind at the albergue to enjoy breakfast. We planned to reunite in Melide, the place where the Camino Primitivo merges with the Camino Francés, and where we’d finally have the chance to eat one of Galicia’s most celebrated dishes, pulpo a la gallega.

Once I set out on the trail, the path quickly carried me back into the countryside, winding through fields and pockets of forest as well as on paved roads through fields of cows. The air was filled with the sweet scent of wildflowers and the smoky aroma of wood fires drifting from distant homes, while the steady clatter of cowbells and the cawing of crows in the distance set the sound of the morning. It had been a while since I’d walked alone on the trail, so I put on some music to keep me company.. the rhythm kept my steps light and steady, turning the day into something both energizing and fun. Along the way, I still exchanged smiles and conversations with fellow pilgrims as our paths crossed.

Eventually the trail began to gently climb, the air growing cooler and thinner with each step, until the trees parted and the path opened onto a ridge. From there, an incredible view of the valley unfolded with rolling fields bathed in soft light, dotted with farmhouses, and patchwork of greens and golds stretching as far as the eye could see. A light breeze carried the scent of grass and earth.

Eventually I reached Melide, where Kathleen, Runa, and Gere were waiting patiently for lunch. I joined them, and together we enjoyed a hearty meal that, of course, included pulpo a la gallega. The octopus arrived in the traditional style — tender slices served on a round wooden plate, generously sprinkled with coarse sea salt, dusted with smoky paprika, and finished with a drizzle of rich olive oil. It was as delicious as it was emblematic of Galicia.

Once finished with our meals, we bid Runa and Gere farewell and headed 5 more km to our albergue in the small village of Boente.

My thoughts: Sitting in Melide, at the very same pulpería I visited in 2022, I was struck by the sense of familiarity… as if the Camino Frances itself had welcomed me back. Now, with just two days left on the Camino Francés, I feel both excited to reach Santiago once more, and a little sad that this journey is nearing its end so quickly. More than anything, I feel grateful for the miles, the moments, and the chance to walk this path again. Time for bed… tomorrow comes quickly!