Sept 18 – Salas

“When we are no longer able to change a situation, we are challenged to change ourselves.” Viktor Frankl

Today tested me- yet in its own way, it was breathtaking. Kathleen and I set out from Grado in the early morning mist, and were quickly embraced by a forested trail, its canopy a sheltering cathedral of green that carried us toward the small town of Salas. Almost at once, the path tilted upward, demanding effort, and the day became a rhythm of climbing and descending, lungs and legs rising and falling with the land itself.

Within the shade of the woods, the air was cool, the light filtered and gentle, offering moments of calm reprieve. But whenever we stepped out from beneath that protective cover, the sun struck hard—merciless, unrelenting. Heat radiated from every surface, pressing down on us with a weight that forced pause after pause. Water breaks became rituals today.

It was exhausting, yes—but threaded through the sweat and struggle was a fierce beauty. The Camino does not give its gifts freely; it asks for your strength, your persistence. And today, as the trail carried us onward, we paid the price in effort and were rewarded in wonder.

As the afternoon came, I told Kathleen how much I longed for a cold spot to soak my feet. On the Camino Francés I’d come across a few soaking pools, and with today’s relentless heat and the miles behind us, I was craving that same relief. Almost as if on cue, we found one..a shallow pool of icy water. The shock of stepping in made me gasp, but soon the ache in my feet melted away, the coolness seeping up through my legs. It was exactly what I needed.

Overall, I truly enjoyed today’s journey, though I felt my energy fade about half an hour before reaching the small, picturesque mountain town of Salas. I paused in the shade, peeled an orange I’d carried from the albergue this morning, and let the sweet, refreshing juice revive me a bit. By the time I entered town I was hot, drenched in sweat, and more than ready for a cold shower and a place to rest. Kathleen, on the other hand, seemed unfazed by the trail today—she hurried straight across the street to a restaurant, eager to order her favorite meal.

The pilgrim dinner in our albergue was very good… homemade butternut squash soup, a hearty bean chili with bread and wine, and cinnamon chia pudding for dessert. The conversation with fellow pilgrims from the UK, Romania, and Australia was exactly what I needed after my rest.

I’m tired, but feeling good about tomorrow and the next .. which will bring their own challenges.

My thoughts: Today unfolded much as I expected. The relentless sun was draining, quickly sapping my energy, but the cool shade of the forest—with its moss-covered rocks and quiet greenery—offered welcome relief. The steady rhythm of climbs and descents tested me, yet I embraced each challenge with determination. Once again, I was reminded that every uphill push is a chance to stretch myself, and that the privilege of walking the Camino is never lost on me.