Sept 19 – Bodenaya

“Between forest and sky, stone and silence, the trail whispers your truest self.”

Since we planned a shorter distance to travel today, Kathleen and I took our time with breakfast, and then spent the morning exploring the city of Salas.

Salas is a small city with a strong sense of history and community. Its streets are narrow and cobbled, lined with stone houses that have stood for centuries. Many buildings have wooden balconies and tiled roofs.

One of the highlights of Salas is its old fortifications and towers. Walking up to these spots offers not only a sense of the city’s medieval past but also wide views of the surrounding countryside. The landscape around Salas is made up of rolling hills, farmland, and small rivers, which add to its quiet charm.

After a great morning of exploring the city, we hit the trail toward Bodenaya.

The trails leading into Bodenaya took us through some of Spain’s most peaceful and green landscapes. The path winds through dense forests where tall chestnut and oak trees form a canopy overhead, filtering the light into soft patterns on the ground. Moss covered stones and ferns lined the trail, and in these cooler fall months, the scent of damp leaves filled the air. Birds provided most of the soundtrack, their chirps echoing in the stillness, with only the steady crunch of our boots on soil breaking the quiet.

As the path climbed and dipped, it occasionally opened into clearings. From these vantage points, we could see rolling hills stretching out in shades of green, broken up by farmhouses, meadows, and grazing cattle. The contrast between the shaded woods and the open countryside made the journey feel like it was constantly changing, with each turn offering a new perspective.

The closer I got to Bodenaya, the more I noticed small signs of rural life, stone walls dividing fields, rustic barns, and narrow lanes that hinted at a village ahead. There’s a sense of stepping into a slower rhythm, away from cities and busy roads, into a space where life is tied to the land.

As I approached Bodenaya the hike through the countryside felt both calming and rewarding. The mix of natural beauty, quiet paths, and glimpses of traditional Asturian countryside made the walk memorable.

By the time we arrived at the Albergue, the journey through the forests felt like a natural prelude to arriving in a place that values rest and connection.

The albergue in Bodenaya is one of those places that feels more like a home than a hostel. Housed in a restored stone farmhouse, it blends rustic charm with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The Albergue has thick stone walls, wooden beams, and cozy furnishings.

I had been especially eager to stay at this albergue, well known along the Camino for the way it makes every pilgrim feel like more than just a traveler passing through. The moment we arrived, we were met at the door by our hosts, Alberto and Allyson, who own, run, and reside in the Albergue. Their genuine smiles set the tone immediately. They welcomed us not just with a simple greeting, but with the warmth of a firm handshake and the comfort of a cool, refreshing glass of water…exactly what weary walkers long for after the day’s journey.

Staying in Bodenaya is not about counting amenities, it’s about being embraced by an experience that lingers long after you’ve left. This albergue is known as a haven of kindness, reflection, and fellowship, where weary pilgrims don’t simply stop for the night, but pause to rediscover the heart of their journey. The warmth of our hosts drew us inward, reminding us all that the Camino is more about connection than it is about distance walked.

That evening, we were invited to gather around the table for a pilgrim dinner lovingly prepared by Allyson. It wasn’t just a meal, it felt like a gift. Each dish carried with it a sense of care and welcome, turning strangers into companions as we shared food, laughter, and stories. In those moments, the walls of the albergue seemed to hold a spirit of community that is rare and unforgettable.

My thoughts:

As I sit and reflect here in Bodenaya, I feel the Camino beginning to settle deeper into me..not just as a physical journey, but as something far more meaningful. The weariness of the road seems lighter in the presence of such kindness, and I’m reminded that this pilgrimage is about more than reaching Santiago. It’s about the people you meet, the moments of shared humanity, and the way places like this renew your spirit. Super grateful to be here!