Sept 24 – Grandas de Salime

“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.” — John Muir

Today’s journey takes me back into the forest, with ascents and descents throughout the day. While not as difficult as the prior day, we did hike for 9 hours today to reach our destination at Grandas de Salime.

I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve tried to put the beauty of this area into words. The trail began quietly, winding through shaded woodland, where the cool air was still heavy with night. But before long, the trees thinned, and we emerged into open countryside. It was as if the landscape had been waiting for us with wide green pastures in every direction, their grasses heavy with dew that shimmered in the first touch of daylight.

The sun was just beginning its slow climb, casting a golden haze across the rolling hills. Shadows stretched long and thin, folding into the valleys, while the higher ridges glowed as though brushed with light. Every breath carried the crisp scent of damp earth and fresh grass. Hiking here, with the day just waking, it felt less like we were passing through the land and more like we were being welcomed into it.

As the trail carried us higher, the landscape transformed once again, drawing us into the quiet embrace of the forest. The air cooled noticeably under the tall canopy, where trunks rose like pillars and the scent of pine and damp earth lingered with every breath. Along the path, ferns spread in thick clusters, their delicate fronds arching gracefully toward the light. Moss blanketed boulders and fallen logs, softening their edges with a rich, velvety green. Sunlight streamed down in scattered beams, illuminating pockets of the trail.

As the trail continued its ascent, the landscape revealed an extraordinary surprise. We broke through the cloud cover, suddenly standing above a soft, endless sea of white that stretched to the horizon. The sun blazed bright, warming our faces as a cool mountain breeze swept past, carrying with it the scent of stone and sky. From this height, the world below was hidden, leaving only the rolling clouds beneath us and the vast expanse of peaks rising in every direction…a view so breathtaking it felt as though we had stepped into another realm.

We soon emerged from the deeper forest and began climbing toward the crest. As we reached the top and looked beyond, a glimmer of blue appeared in the distance. What first seemed like a simple stretch of water revealed itself to be a broad lake, held in place by a dam. To continue toward our destination, the trail would lead us down the far side of the slope, winding steadily until we crossed over the dam itself. From this vantage point, the scenery was spectacular once again…sweeping views of the hillside giving way to water and sky.

After crossing the dam and skirting the edge of the lake, we found a small café tucked into the mountainside — a welcome sight after the long descent. Its terrace opened out over the water, offering sweeping views of the valley below and the ridgelines rising beyond. We paused there for a much needed lunch, the warmth of hearty food and the comfort of rest made all the better by the crisp mountain air and the gentle sparkle of the lake just below. Recharged and content, we continued onward toward our final destination.

My thoughts: Today’s hike felt more like a trek through the Alps than a hike in Spain. We covered an impressive distance, and though the route wasn’t as demanding as yesterday’s, it still offered its share of challenges, balanced perfectly by the rewards of breathtaking scenery and quiet moments along the trail. More than anything, I feel deeply grateful to be here, exploring this remarkable corner of Spain on foot, with each step offering a new perspective and a memory worth keeping.